In much
of São Paulo, window-shopping is simply not practical:
the concrete city is too vast for sidewalk strolling. Instead,
residents who can afford higher-end merchandise drive to centers
of consumption known in Brazil as “shoppings”;
in the United States, they are called malls.
But there is a new exception: Vila
Madalena, a hilly neighborhood in the western zone. Long known
as a student hangout for its cheap beers and late-night samba
dancing, Vila Madalena has seen an influx of quirky boutiques,
which is turning this night-life hub into a pedestrian-friendly
shopping arcade.
City officials have noticed and are
considering a plan to widen a few sidewalks, install street
furniture and turn several blocks into one-way streets.
A good place to start exploring Vila
Madalena is along Ruas Wisard and Aspicuelta, between Harmônia
and R. Morato Coelho. You might stumble into funky shops like
Maria Simone (Rua Wisard, 287; 55-11-3815-5392), a year-old
store that sells T-shirts and bags with cute images of dogs
and cats embroidered by elderly women.
Next door is Mumps (Rua Wisard, 285;
55-11-3031-7057; www.usemumps.com), which sells its own line
of graphic T-shirts inspired by movies and other pop culture
references.
“Vila Madalena is a very free
neighborhood,” said Tana Millan, the designer behind
Simultânea (Rua Aspicuelta, 207; 55-11-3031-9408; www.simultanea.com.br),
which sells colorful sundresses and other women’s clothing.
“In the Vila, everything is possible. There are no business
models.”
Last May, Ms. Millan’s block
welcomed what is probably the area’s biggest fashion
star to date: Ronaldo Fraga (Rua Aspicuelta, 259; 55-11-3816-2182;
www.ronaldofraga.com.br). Mr. Fraga, whose collections are
a staple at São Paulo’s Fashion Week, is the
kind of designer who usually sets up shop in the exclusive
Jardins neighborhood. His lines (mostly for women) often have
a Brazilian bent. One is dedicated to the Bossa Nova legend
Nara Leão, down to shoes (220 reais) that look like
her Volkswagen Beetle convertible.
Across the street is Refazenda (Rua
Aspicuelta, 188; 55-11-3816-5414; www.vivarefazenda.com.br),
which sells playful but sophisticated handmade dresses, skirts
and bags. Many are reversible: one handbag (260 reais) can
be flipped from a flowery daytime look to a bluish-green taffeta
for the evening.
Trendy cafes have also arrived. The
Adelaide Café (Rua Aspicuelta, 202; 55-11-3816-4790)
has an airy balcony with wicker chairs, and serves light meals
like goat cheese salad (19 reais) and mini-hamburgers (18
reais for six), along with dependable Wi-Fi.
And down the block is Café
Florinda (Rua Aspicuelta, 181; 55-11-3814-1060), which has
a prix-fixe lunch (20.50 reais) that might include fresh passion
fruit juice, salad and a simple pasta with tomato sauce.
Vila Madalena is also a growing hot
spot for home design shops. Among the newest is Villa Nova
(Rua Girassol, 283; 55-11-3031-4055; www.villanovatecidos.com.br),
a rug and fabric store that specializes in sumptuous textiles
like Jacquard silk that goes for upward of about 2,350 reais
a yard.
“The people who identify themselves
with Vila Madalena are creators,” said Nicea Bento Souza,
the owner of Composição (Rua Girassol, 228;
55-11-3032-5675; www.composicaome.com.br), which sells jewelry,
handbags and shoes, some made from recycled materials. “Vila
Madalena still has a truly Brazilian character.”
Seth kugel
The New York Times
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