Coast of Pernambuco alternates trendy beaches and others almost deserted

01/24/2013 - 11h02

The coconut trees, white sand and warm blue water of the sea are everywhere.

But not everything is so predictable, on the coast of Pernambuco. On the contrary.

	Edmar Melo/Folhapress
	A View of Carneiros Beach, on South Coast

Only 187 km long, the stretch surprises by possessing almost deserted beaches near others with a lot of action.

The bustle of Porto de Galinhas is almost a neighbor to the peace of Carneiros Beach, the latest paradise discovered by tourism in the region.

The effervescence of Boa Viagem Beach, in Recife, is only 30 km from the coconut groves of Paiva Preserve, the path that leads to the best spots on the south coast.

On the way is Calhetas with its views, and Maracaípe with its mangroves and sea horses.

North of the capital, there is a quiet island near another hectic one.


The calm one is Coroa do Avião, which can be reached from the island of Itamaracá, for anyone who wants to get away from the peace and quiet. Halfway between Recife and Itamaracá is Maria Farinha Beach.

Visited more, the south coast has the best infrastructure. However, you can also find good lodging options and restaurants going north.

Find your beach in Pernambuco:

BOA VIAGEM

Considered one of the most urban beautiful beaches in the country, Boa Viagem, in Recife, is one of the most frequented on the Pernambuco coast.

There is good infrastructure of hotels and restaurants in the area, besides the kiosks and the presence of accredited wandering vendors.

But whoever sees the swimmers, sees something different: there are many people on the sand and few in the water.

The reason is the sharks lurking in that stretch of water. Experts consider Boa Viagem a high-risk area for attacks.

COROA DO AVIÃO

The name is kind of weird (Crown of the Airplane), but the place has the charm of a desert island in the sea.

Coroa do Avião, in Igarassu (35 km from Recife), is a kind of sandbar that worked. An islet near the island of Itamaracá.

The white sand of the beach contrasts with the vegetation that grows in the central part. At low tide, the sea is calm, almost without waves.

Small motor rafts go back and forth all the time, carrying visitors. The crossing is made from Itamaracá and costs R$10 per person roundtrip. The visitor is the one who determines the time of return. The service operates from 7AM to 5PM.

Whoever wants to know more of the region can take a boat trip, which costs R$35 per person.

In about 40 minutes, the boat passes by Coroa do Avião, by natural pools and navigates near the Orange Fort, built by the Dutch in 1631.

SOSSEGO

On the island of Itamaracá, there are places visited little, such as Sossego Beach, nine kilometers from the city center, accessible by a dirt road rutted and winding, unlit.

The beauty of the beach, however, compensates for the inconvenience. The sea is calm, with white sand lined with shells. There are a few bars there, all of them very simple.

SOUTH COAST

With a little time and some inclination, it is possible to know much of the southern coast of Pernambuco, where the most famous beaches in the state are.

Leaving Recife, the route is only 30 kilometers to Itapuama, a beach with strong waves, which serves as a meeting point for surfers. Moving forward, toward Enseada dos Corais, the hint is to stop at the overlook, where you can see the sea and the curves of the beaches all the way to the capital. Over the next 45 km, there are at least four places that deserve to be seen: Pedra do Xaréu, Calhetas, Maracaípe, and of course, Porto de Galinhas.

Access to Xaréu and Calhetas is gained partly by dirt road, but the visual compensates for the inconvenience. Huge rocks form small bays, good for fishing and swimming.

In Xaréu, the infrastructure is simple, with fishing shacks turned into bars. There are umbrellas in the sand and plastic chairs.

Porto de Galinhas is the most well structured place on the coast of Pernambuco. In the village, there are resorts, hotels and inns of all types. Restaurants, entertainment and parties also abound.

Four miles ahead, Maracaípe is another meeting point for surfers. Full of strong waves, the site is not suggested for swimmers.

Translated by DAVE WOLIN