Thinner than any pinkie, but nonetheless not fragile. They reach the table with two attributes that many foods can only wish for: crisp on the outside, soft on the inside. They fit messily but still elegantly inside a metal dish.
They reveal little bits of their brownskin, cut in "allummette" (matchstick) style. They seem perfectly assimilated into the bistro, even though their origins are Belgian.
They can be called comfort food: they may remind you of the end of afternoon at your grandmother's, or of an autumn lunch in Paris. So full of charm and generous, even when thin, the French fries at Ici make us forget that they're not the star attraction, but merely a side order.
