“Brazilian fashion wants to exchange excessive hype for business. Less hype, more money.”
This is how Folha announced in 2001 the change of Morumbi Fashion to São Paulo Fashion Week.
Back then, brands that had banded together to sell at the Mercado Mundo Mix and Casa de Criadores then joined to create large events at Forum, Ellus, and Zoomp.
But almost 20 years later, the model has collapsed, and in its 47th edition, SPFW boils down to more hype and less money.
Of the 36 marquee brands, only three, Bobstore, Lenny Niemeyer and Cavalera, which returns to the event after being absent for four years, have more than five stores. Most have just a single physical point, and some are just available online.
Only five brands were present at its launch in 2001, Ronaldo Fraga and Reinaldo Lourenço being two. The latter starts the season on Monday night (22) at the Farol Santander downtown.
In addition, some of the largest brands have decided to mount their own fashion shows outside of SPFW, fragmenting the Brazilian season.
Alexandre Herchcovitch presented a collection for the label À La Garçonne at the São Paulo Cultural Center in March. Animale did a huge show in Rio de Janeiro earlier this month. The group AMC, from Colcci and Forum, in turn, called press and buyers for their fashion shows in Rio Grande do Sul, where it is based.
Translated by Kiratiana Freelon